Pilgrimage sites in Germany – Essen

History

In the centre of Essen stands the Cathedral. Initially, this site was home to the convent church of nuns, which stood there from 850 to 1803. This monastic community was one of the most important institutions for women in the Holy Roman Empire. The city of Essen developed around this convent over the course of the Middle Ages.
The Cathedral Treasury displays valuable objects from the 10th and 11th centuries. This period was also a golden age for monasteries and churches, even though a large fire in 946 destroyed a great deal.

The Essen Minster, the former collegiate church, combines remarkable Romanesque and Gothic architecture.

The golden Madonna in the Cathedral is the world's oldest, solid statue of Mary and the most important work of art in the Ruhr area. The statue was made around 980, making it the oldest medieval depiction.

The pilgrimage church is of a respectable age, as a crypt was built here in 1051. The mortal remains of Altfrid von Hildesheim (c. 800-874), Bishop of Hildesheim (851-874), lie here. He was the 4th Bishop of Hildesheim and co-founder of the Benedictine convent that once stood here.

In 1275, there was another great fire which caused much destruction. Following this, the construction of the nave and the chancel of the Cathedral took place; these were created in the period 1275-1316. The current form of the building then emerges.

In the year 1471, the St. Johann Chapel of Worship was completed. It is a late-Gothic hall church.

As a result of the Reformation, the monastery is dissolved. The monastery church then becomes the parish church for the ever-growing population of the inner city of Essen.

The name “Golden Madonna” originated in the 19th century. The maker of the devotional image is unknown. The origin of the statue is a matter of speculation. The image may have come from Cologne. The devotional image is called “Mutter von guten Rat” (Mother of Good Counsel). In 1905, the statue was restored for the first time. During the Second World War (1939-1945), the church was largely destroyed and the devotional image suffered damage. Following this, the gold leaf on the statue was renewed. The reconstruction of the church was made possible by the help of the residents of Essen. This reconstruction work began in 1945 and lasted 13 years, with the church being fully completed in 1958.

In the period 1953-1968, new glass windows were installed in the Cathedral and the adjacent chapel of adoration.

Since 1958, the founding of the Diocese of Essen, the former monastery church has become the cathedral and the bishop's church. The church is also referred to as “Dom of Essen” and “Münster of Essen.”.

On 11 October 1959, the feast day of the Maternity of Mary, the devotional image arrived in the north side chapel. The image resides there in an air-conditioned display case. The decision to do this was made by Franz Hengsbach (1910-1991), Bishop of Essen (1957-1991), Cardinal (1988-1991). His titular church is “Nostra Signora di Guadalupe a Monte Mario” (Our Lady of Guadalupe of Monte Mario). Mexican Guadalupe is the largest Marian pilgrimage site in the world.

In 1959, John XXIII, Pope from 1958 to 1963 and born Angelo Giuseppe Roncalli (1881-1963), appointed the effigy of Mary as patroness of the Diocese of Essen. He spoke of “the blessed Virgin Mary, under the title Mother of Good Counsel, for all time”. Since then, the side chapel has been named the “Mother of Good Counsel Chapel”.

In 1981 the Adveniat crypt was created, in which the Essen bishops are entombed.

In 1987, John Paul II visited the cathedral; he served as Pope from 1978 to 2005 and was born Karol Józef Wojtyła (1920–2005).

The statue of Our Lady of Grace was thoroughly examined and restored for the first time in 2003–2004. Since then, the outer gold layer has been cleaned regularly. The figure is carved from poplar wood and then covered with gold leaf. Research shows that the statue was created around the year 980, making it the oldest surviving carved figure of the Virgin Mary north of the Alps. Furthermore, this statue is the oldest carved work of Mary made from a single piece of wood. The statue is one of the few remaining major Ottonian works of art.

In 2004, a memorial to Nikolaus Gross (1898–1945) was established in the cathedral. He was beatified in 2001 by Pope John Paul II. Gross was sentenced to death for his activities in the final year of the Second World War.

In 2006, the statue of Our Lady of Mercy underwent further restoration.

Pilgrimage site

The Essen Minster is also called the “Münster” of Essen. The name “Münster” comes from the Latin word “Monasterium” which means “monastery”. The church is then part of a monastery or a chapter; a religious community or governing body, associated with a cathedral, chapter church, or monastery. The name “chapter” is derived from the Latin word “capitulum” and refers to a chapter of the Bible. The Minster is the bishop's church of the Diocese of Essen.

The golden statue of Mary stands in the side chapel of the cathedral. In Essen, the statue of the Golden Madonna is popularly known as “Essen’s treasure”. The statue is the most important work of art in the Ruhr region.

The statue of Our Lady stands in the left-hand side chapel of the cathedral, behind a closed grille. Above the grille is an arch bearing the words “HEILIGE MARIA-MUTTER VOM GUTEN RAT-BITTE FÜR UNS” (“Holy Mary, Mother of Good Counsel, pray for us”).The golden image depicts Mary and her Child, who sits on the Mother’s lap. The Mother of God wears a veil and a long robe that falls to her feet. In her right hand, Mary holds a globe, whilst with her left hand she supports her Child. The infant Jesus holds a book to his chest with his left hand and, with his other hand, holds a ball representing the globe. The eyes of Mary and Jesus are made of enamel, and the colours chosen are blue, red and white. The statue is carved from poplar wood and covered with sheets of gold leaf. The 74 cm tall statue is still venerated today and stands on a 27 cm wide plinth. Visitors experience a sense of spiritual power whilst standing before the statue.

In the Cathedral, the icon of Mary as “Our Lady of Perpetual Help” can be seen. It is a replica and was placed in the Cathedral in the early 20th century.

In the Adveniat crypt are the graves of the bishops of Essen. The name Adveniat refers to the diocese of Essen's connection with the Latin American aid organisation “Adveniat”.

The southern side chapel of the Cathedral houses a memorial to Nikolaus Gross (1898–1945). Gross was a miner, trade unionist, journalist and editor-in-chief. He campaigned against National Socialism and paid for it with his life. A selection of Nikolaus Gross’s letters is also on display in this room. The chapel is a place for reflection and prayer.

The windows in the Cathedral and the Chapel of Adoration mostly show abstract art and were made by various artists.

The Chapel of St John displays four altarpieces by Barthel Bruyn/Bartholomeus Bruyn the Elder (1493–1555) from the years 1522–1525: The Nativity, The Adoration of the Magi, The Crucifixion and The Lamentation over Christ.

Next to the cathedral is also the treasury (Domschatz). Here you can see, among other things, church treasures from the 10th and 11th centuries, gold objects and crowns, including that of the shrine. The treasury is open from Tuesday to Sunday.

The Cathedral is open daily.

ACCESSIBILITY

Essen is a city with a population of around 600,000 and is located in western Germany. It is situated in the Ruhr region and in the federal state of North Rhine-Westphalia.

The Cathedral is located in the centre of Essen at Burgplatz 2.

Further information can be found at www.dom-essen.de and also at www.domschatz-essen.de

Experience

In Essen, I want to pay my respects to the “Golden Madonna”. The statue is housed in the cathedral, so I’m heading into the city centre. The church I’m visiting is situated at the spiritual and historical heart of Essen.

As I stand before the large, Catholic complex with church and outbuildings, I feel the tower beckon with “come on in”. The entrance to the Cathedral is next to the tall church tower. In the large church, the imposing structure really strikes me. What a building! What a house of God!

At the entrance, one lights a candle in front of a picture of Mary as Mother of Perpetual Help. I understand that candles are always burning here. Afterwards, I enter the memorial room of Nikolaus Gross, who was murdered by the Nazi regime.

Next, I head to the south side chapel of the cathedral and pause at the chapel of the “Mother of Good Counsel”. An iron gate prevents anyone from getting any closer to the “Golden Madonna”. So I stand a few metres away from the centuries-old, golden statue of Mary. The ancient image stands in a glass case; it is clearly visible from a distance and is more than beautiful. What a great gift it is to be able to see this statue. It leaves me speechless. A statue of Mary that has been in this world for more than a millennium! I learn that the Golden Madonna is the patron saint of Essen. Candles are burning in front of the gate, and a few more are now being added. Then it is time to pray to Our Lady of Good Counsel. Two friends are struggling with their health, and so I have intentions for those good people. What counsel will Our Lady give them …?

Next, I visit the chapel of adoration and see some very beautiful paintings there, which also depict Our Lady. Then I go back to the Cathedral to pray. I also see a leaflet there with a picture of the Golden. It contains information about the Golden Madonna and a prayer is printed on it. A few words from the prayer are:
“every action, every deed,
Mother, you, of good counsel,
I place everything in the hands of,
”You’ll see it through to the end.”

Environment

Near Essen is Oberhausen, from Oberhausen it is 14 km to go east.

The city of Duisburg is also located near Essen. Travelling from Duisburg to Essen means travelling 22 km eastwards.

From the pilgrimage site of Kevelaer, it is 70 km south-east to get to Essen.

The pilgrimage site of Werl is 81 km from Essen. Travelling from Werl to Essen is a journey of 81 km to the west.

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